Wheat Berry Salad with Snap Peas and Chèvre

Wheat Berry Salad
Wheat Berry Salad with Snap Peas and Chèvre

The temperature in the desert southwest has finally warmed to my expectations… just in time for a month or so of gorgeous weather before the hell season hits in June. With my cozy sweaters packed away, I’m leaning into warmer weather fare in my weekly menus. And whole grain salads like this month’s Wheat Berry Salad with Snap Peas and Chèvre are a perfect fit. 

In Mom’s day the term “whole grains” basically meant whole wheat flour. She had versions of every baked item imaginable modified for baking with said flour. But she would not be familiar with the whole wheat berries, farro berries or purple barley that currently reside in my pantry. I have to admit that for quite a few years I myself found them to be a tad intimidating. They took a long time to cook. And who knew what to do with them once they were finally done? For that matter, how did one even know when they were done? 

Ignorance was bliss, until small bags of these beautiful blond wheat berries began to appear in my Community Supported Agriculture share. Turns out that the Sonoran white wheat flour that I love to use in my baking came from the Sonoran white wheat berry, and evidently I was expected to eat them in that form as well. 

If one listens to the holistic health types, there are good reasons to eat grains in their  whole state. While both the wheat berries and whole wheat flour contain the bran, germ and endosperm, the flour has been milled into the tiniest of pieces. This allows them to oxidize and lose nutrients unless properly stored from the moment of milling. Products baked from the flour also have a higher glycemic index. It takes a very short time for digestive enzymes to break down all those tiny bits from starch to sugar and release them into one’s bloodstream. However, when the enzymes tackle the whole berries, they have to work much longer and harder to reach the starch hidden inside the bran. Resulting in a slower and more controlled blood sugar rise. 

The wheat berries began to pile up in my pantry, so I cooked up a pot of them. Mind blown. Sweet and nutty golden orbs, opening between one’s teeth with a little Pop! Their chewy texture is a lovely contrast to vegetable dishes that otherwise might be too soft. I began to use them in vegetarian soups like my White Vegetable Chili, to produce the texture that meat would otherwise provide. Then I discovered the wheat berry salad, with its endless variations of flavor profiles. 

Full circle to today’s salad recipe. This salad provides a sweet,  juicy and crisp pop in one’s mouth with every bite. The sweetness comes from the wheat itself, along with sugar snaps, red peppers and dried cherries. Countered by the tart and bitter components of lemon, radicchio and arugula. Accented by the depth of flavor from parsley, walnuts and chèvre. I’ll be making this one all summer. While we serve it as a main, it could easily feed more people as a side at a BBQ or summer picnic. 

If I’ve convinced you that the place to start is the Sonoran white wheat berry, they are readily available for order from Hayden Flour Mills, right up the road from me in Queens Creek, Arizona. They are fine folks offering a fine set of products. However, I’d encourage you to try wheat berries in whatever variety you might have available to you. Don’t wait as long as I did. 

Wheat Berry Salad with Snap Peas and Chèvre

Whole grain salad with the sweet, juicy pop of whole wheat berries, sugar snap peas and rich bites of goat cheese.
Prep Time1 hour
Total Time1 hour
Course: Entree, Entree Salad, Salad side dish
Cuisine: American
Keyword: cool, fresh, salad, wheat
Servings: 4
Calories: 382kcal

Ingredients

Salad

  • 1 cup wheat berries I used Sonoran white berries
  • 1/2 cup sugar snap peas, cut into thin slices on the bias
  • 1 green onion, thinly sliced
  • 1/2 cup chopped parsley
  • 7 very thin slices lemon
  • 1 tsp olive oil
  • 1/2 cup chopped radicchio
  • 1/2 cup chopped red bell pepper
  • 1/3 cup chopped walnuts
  • 1/2 cup chopped arugula
  • 1/2 cup goat cheese crumbles
  • 1/4 cup chopped dried cherries

Dressing

  • 3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
  • 2 tbsp lemon juice
  • 2 tsp honey
  • 1/4 tsp Dijon mustard
  • 1 tsp herbs do Provence
  • 1/4 tsp salt
  • 1/4 tsp freshly ground pepper

Instructions

  • Cook the wheat berries as directed on the package. Drain the grains and place into a large mixing bowl; cool. Microwave the sliced sugar snap peas for 20 seconds in a smaller bowl, then stir into the cooled grains. In a small skillet, toast the nuts over medium heat til fragrant. Add to the grains. Cut the lemon slices into 6 wedges each, then saute briefly in the same skillet in the 1 teaspoon olive oil. When lightly browned, remove to the bowl of grains. Add and stir in the green onion, parsley, radicchio, bell pepper, arugula, cheese crumbles and cherries. 
    Whisk together the dressing ingredients, then pour over and toss thoroughly. Serve at room temperature, or chill to serve cold. 

Notes

  • Nutrition Facts
  • Total Fat: 20.4 g
  •    Saturated: 4 g 
  • Cholesterol: 7 mg 
  • Sodium: 212 mg
  • Total Carbohydrate: 42.3 
  •     Fiber: 8.1 g
  •     Sugars: 6.3 g
  • Protein: 12.3 g
Nutrition facts calculated using Very Well Nutrition Calculator

Steam Sautéd Carrots

Carrots
Steam Sauted Carrots

Daddy grew plenty of carrots in his huge vegetable garden every year. Stored in the root cellar they would last for months, albeit growing a few wrinkles. The orange roots were mostly supporting players in those days; never cast in the lead. Mom used them in salads, soups and stews, but primarily she nestled them along with potatoes next to a long simmered chuck roast. They also made somewhat frequent appearances raw. When she wasn’t sure what was available for lunch, they were the token veg in the guise of celery and carrot sticks. Probably parked next to the cheese and crackers that were always available.  

So here we are in November, and I’m thinking that carrots might be able to segue into an official Thanksgiving side dish. What makes a great holiday side dish in my book? They need to be independent characters, more or less capable of cooking themselves, because I’m wrestling with turkey and gravy at the last minute. It’s also quite desirable for them to cook quietly on the stove top, as the oven tends to be busy baking my grandmother’s mashed potato dressing and roasting Brussel sprouts.

These steam sauted carrots meet this criteria quite nicely. Once the ingredients are prepped, they simmer to tenderness on their own, then brown a bit, uncovered, as the liquid cooks off. The carrots gain depth of flavor from the miso, sesame oil and fish sauce, finished with a hit of acidity from the rice vinegar and lemon. Stir in the fresh herbs at the end and they are ready for the table. 

Today, while carrots are no kale or cauliflower in terms of popularity, they have gained considerably more respect as a solo vegetable. Roasted whole with accompaniments such as miso and honey, or tahini, they step up into that long coveted lead role as the vegetable on the plate. Some plant based eaters even stretch their credibility considerably by parking them into buns as “hot dogs.” But I’ll travel a fair distance out of my way to avoid hot dogs, whether carrot or the real thing… Today though, I’m using a steam/saute combo cooking method. 

Whatever bounty graces your Thanksgiving table this year, I wish you a blessed, lovely day with family and friends. Side dishes aside, that’s what Thanksgiving is all about. 

Steam Sauted Carrots

Slightly browned and tender cuts of carrot, with deep flavor from miso, sesame, fish sauce and lemon. Topped with green onion and herbs for freshness.
Prep Time30 minutes
Cook Time15 minutes
Total Time45 minutes
Course: Side Dish, Vegetable
Cuisine: Fusion
Keyword: carrots
Servings: 4

Ingredients

  • 2 tsp diced ginger root
  • 1 tsp coconut oil
  • 1 tsp white miso
  • 3 large carrots, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch pieces
  • 1 tsp honey
  • 1 tbsp rice vinegar
  • 2 tbsp lemon juice
  • 1 tsp sesame oil
  • 1 tsp fish sauce
  • 1/3 cup vegetable broth
  • 1/2 cup chopped green onion
  • 2 tsp lemon zest
  • 1/3 cup cilantro, chopped
  • salt and pepper to taste

Instructions

  • Melt the coconut oil in a medium sized skillet over medium heat. Add the ginger root and stir lightly for a minute or so. Add the carrots, miso, honey, vinegar, lemon juice, sesame oil, fish sauce and broth. Mix and bring to a boil, cover, and lower the heat to simmer. Steam until just tender.
  • Uncover the skillet and increase the heat to medium high, allowing the liquid to cook off. As the carrots begin to brown and glaze, stir in the onions, lemon zest and cilantro. Season to taste with salt and pepper, and serve.

Notes

63 Calories per serving
Total Fat: 2.6 g
Sat Fat: 1.3 g
Cholesterol: 0 g
Sodium: 247 mg
Total Carbohydrate 8.5 g
Fiber: 1.8 g
Total sugar: 4.8 g
Protein: 1.4 g
Nutrition calculated by VeryWellFit

Spaghetti Squash with Fresh Herbs and Walnuts

Spaghetti Squash with Fresh Herbs and Walnuts

I trust that you all both survived and recovered from Thanksgiving 2021. 

Thanksgiving on the farm had a menu set in stone. Roast turkey, my grandmother’s Amish potato dressing, mashed potatoes, gravy, the token vegetable, jellied cranberries and pumpkin pie. While everyone and their brother appear to swoon over the side dishes, there were only five of us; one vegetable dish seemed plenty for which to be thankful. It was likely to be whatever Mom had in the freezer that would take the least effort-green beans, most likely. And after the dinner was no longer served at the farm, who was I to mess with family tradition? That menu was an institution unto itself and has lived on.

But over the past year, we have gradually transitioned to a more plant centric diet. No commitments, no deletions, just putting plant-based foods at the center of the plate with fewer animal products around it.  While my taste buds argue occasionally, my digestive system is exceedingly thankful. I knew there would have to be less turkey and dressing, and more vegetables on my particular plate this year.

We tried out varying vegetable side dishes in the weeks leading up to Thanksgiving, ultimately settling on braised collard greens and honey miso roasted root vegetables. One could simmer away on the cooktop while the other roasted in the oven alongside the dressing. When push came to shove, today’s spaghetti squash recipe didn’t make the cut for the big day, as it was a last minute diva. When one is slicing turkey, heating potatoes, making gravy, and serving wine, the veggies have to step up to the plate and take care of themselves! 

So while today’s squash recipe needed too much coddling to be served for Thanksgiving, it’s a fresh take on spaghetti squash that we enjoy with less demanding meals. We often receive spaghetti squash in our CSA share, and I generally find it a bit bland. Nor does it make a satisfactory substitute for pasta in my opinion-it’s not particularly filling, and the texture is nothing like spaghetti. But steamed just until tender yet crisp, shredded from the shell and dressed with a fresh miso laced herb mince, its personality shines. The lemon provides just enough acidity, such that each bite cleanses the palate in preparation for the next. Bring on the diva; it’s my current go-to recipe for spaghetti squash. 

We all need to be incorporating more plant foods into our diets. They feed our bodies in ways that animal foods food can’t. It matters not the role played by vegetables on your plate. Put them at the center, or serve them on the side, but do include them. Spaghetti Squash with Fresh Herbs and Walnuts is a tasty addition to the plate, wherever you decide to place it. 

Spaghetti Squash with Fresh Herbs and Walnuts

Crisp, tender shreds of spaghetti squash with a fresh herb mince and chopped walnuts.
Prep Time2 hours 30 minutes
Total Time2 hours 30 minutes
Course: Side Dish, Vegetable
Cuisine: American
Keyword: fresh herb mince
Servings: 4

Ingredients

  • 2 lb spaghetti squash
  • 1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
  • 1 tbsp lemon juice
  • 1/2 tsp salt
  • 1/2 tsp freshly ground pepper
  • 1/2 small bunch parsley
  • 1 tsp fresh rosemary, diced
  • 1 tbsp fresh thyme leaves
  • 2 tbsp fresh basil leaves, chopped
  • 2 tsp white miso
  • 1/4 cup walnut pieces
  • 1 green onion, cut into 1-inch pieces

Instructions

  • Cut the spaghetti squash in half, lengthwise. Place half in a glass pie plate and pour 3/4-inch of water in the bottom. Cover with plastic wrap and steam in the microwave for 5-10 minutes, til tender. Remove first half from the plate and repeat with the second half of squash. Set squash aside while preparing the herbs.
  • Blend the olive oil, lemon juice, salt and pepper. Set aside.
  • Place the parsley, herbs, miso, walnuts and green onion in food processor and pulse til finely minced.
  • Scrape the shreds of squash into a medium bowl and toss evenly with the olive oil and lemon dressing. Sprinkle the herb mince over the squash and fold in. Serve immediately.

Homemade Applesauce

recipe image
Applesauce with cream and chopped nuts

Early fall meant applesauce, an all-day epic endeavor.  It was the final hot, steamy preservation project of the year, thankfully. Mom was quite particular about her applesauce, made with yellow transparent apples. Don’t bother suggesting any other variety to her, it was yellow transparent or bust.  Fortunately, my Dad’s cousin Fran had a large grove of yellow transparent apple trees, or it would have been bust.  Fran was delighted to see us, for those trees produced more than they could possibly use.  

The transparent was the palest of green/yellow apple with a crisp white interior. High in acidity, these apples were decidedly not for eating raw, but made incredible applesauce. Mom had a vintage applesauce strainer with a long wooden pestle. The apples were washed, cut into pieces and cooked down to a creamy consistency in a bit of water. Once soft, they were reamed through the strainer, pressing all the pulp through, the peels and seeds left behind. The hot applesauce had to be sweetened just so, after which it was cooled. Packed into plastic bags and cardboard cartons, we filled the freezer, for it was one of our main sources of fruit in the winter. Mom’s favorite way of serving her applesauce was partially thawed, leaving it icy cold with frozen bits of sweetness. It was delicious.

Once off the farm, serving applesauce left me to the mercy of the grocery store…   

It obviously was someone’s job to search for the worst possible apple varieties, because while the label said “applesauce,” that stuff was decidedly mediocre. That’s actually giving it more credit that it was due… Its consumption was resigned to the years in which we were starting solid foods to our babies. Poor kids!

One of our babies grew enough to attend kindergarten at the local public school. Where his inspired teacher made applesauce with the kids, after which they wrote about the experience. By popular demand she sent the recipe with the students to make at home. Her name is withheld to protect the innocent, but the recipe was titled Mrs. _______’s Lumpy-Bumpy Applesauce. This sauce was absolutely nothing like Mom’s, yet it was absolutely yummy. Chunky rather than smooth, but well balanced and full of flavor, with no transparent apples in sight. 

Turns out the key is using a mix of several different varieties of apple. Since each combination is unique, it’s important to adjust the amount of sweetening to taste. I like to cook the apples with the peel, then strain it in my food mill, which keeps the lumpy bumpy consistency and provides a beautiful pink color, though if peeled the whole straining process can be skipped. Depth of flavor develops with the addition of cinnamon, citrus and a dollop of yes, brandy. Which I suppose you could omit, if you really need to. But I wouldn’t… While this applesauce is delicious on its own, drizzling with a spoonful of cream and a sprinkle of toasted nuts puts it in dessert territory.  Mom wouldn’t recognize it, I suppose, but she might still like it…

Sometimes I need to remind myself. Homemade is best. 

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5 from 1 vote

Homemade Applesauce

Sweet-tart applesauce with notes of cinnamon and brandy.
Prep Time1 hour
Total Time1 hour
Course: Breakfast, Dessert, Side Dish, Snack
Cuisine: American
Keyword: apples
Servings: 6

Ingredients

  • 4 large apples  I like a mix of Gala, Fuji and Pink Lady
  • 3/4 tsp cinnamon
  • 1 tbsp brandy
  • 1 medium lemon, juice and zest
  • 1/2 tsp vanilla
  • 2-4 tbsp honey
  • 1/4 cup cream optional
  • 1/4 cup nuts, toasted and chopped optional

Instructions

  • Wash, quarter and core the apples. Cut the quarters into several pieces and place into a large saucepan with ½ cup water. Bring to a boil, cover and reduce heat to simmer. Cook the apples for 15-20 minutes, until soft. Allow to cool slightly.
     
  • Turn the apples and liquid into a reamer or food mill, turning until the pulp is strained through and peel is left behind. Return the apple puree to the saucepan and add the cinnamon, brandy, lemon juice and zest, and vanilla. Begin with 2 tablespoons of honey, stir and taste. If the sauce is too tart, continue to add honey and taste until desired level of sweetness is reached
  • To serve as dessert, drizzle each serving with the optional cream. Sprinkle with chopped nuts.

Notes

To skip the straining step, simply peel and core the apples prior to cooking.

Fresh Corn Fritters

Farm kids have to make their own fun. Admittedly, it can get a little weird. While the indoors offered chances for reading and watching TV, the outdoors presented numerous opportunities for more-uh…adventurous pursuits. I may have, without ever knowing it, pioneered the corn maze. For the uninitiated, a corn maze is a life size human puzzle, made by cutting a convoluted path through a mature cornfield, in which folks can wander and get lost. My version just skipped cutting a path. I’d squeeze my little self through the tall stalks, and wander through the field, pushing the rustling leaves and stalks aside. Eventually the folks would send the dog in to locate and rescue me. I suspect maybe you had to be there to see the charm…

Now the corn field in which I’d take my wander was known as dent corn. Dent corn, aka “field corn” produces a hard corn kernel, high in starch and low in sugar; decidedly not for human consumption unless processed.  It was and is to this day a commodity product, grown to make animal feed, corn syrup and tortilla chips. The corn jewel was grown in my Dad’s patch of Silver Queen sweet corn, high sugar ears picked while immature, milky, sweet and juicy. This corn was plucked, shucked and in the pot within minutes, for the sugar begins to turn to starch as soon as it’s picked. We ate most of this delicious corn right from the cob, dripping with butter. Mom froze the remainder of Dad’s crop each year so we enjoyed the taste of fresh sweet corn year round. 

Every now and again, Mom would make what she called corn fritters. They were really more of a fresh corn pancake, given that she did not deep-fry them in liberal amounts of oil. The batter was a quick mix of eggs, flour, salt and pepper with fresh corn kernels folded in and pan fried just until golden brown on both sides. This is one of those simple recipes for which fresh quality ingredients are paramount to producing the essence of corn in a light cloud of corn cake. They can be jazzed up with chives, jalapeno, red pepper or other vegetables, but to my mind, this just dilutes that pure corn essence. This is one of the few family recipes in which I have changed absolutely nothing. 

It’s getting late in the season, I know. You might have to forage through a few sources to find good ears of sweet corn, if you haven’t grown them in your own garden. Make the effort and save the recipe. You won’t regret it. 

Fresh Corn Fritters

Fresh sweet corn captured in a cloud light pancake
Prep Time20 minutes
Cook Time10 minutes
Total Time30 minutes
Course: Side Dish
Cuisine: American
Keyword: sweet corn
Servings: 6

Ingredients

  • 3 eggs, yolks and whites separated
  • 1/4 cup flour
  • 1/2 tsp. salt
  • 1/8 tsp. pepper
  • 1 2/3 cup cooked, drained fresh corn cut from the cob
  • Vegetable oil for frying 

Instructions

  • Whip the egg whites until they form stiff peaks and set aside.
     
  • Combine the flour, salt and pepper.
  • Preheat a large skillet or griddle on medium high heat.
  • Beat the egg yolks until light, then stir in the corn. Blend the flour mixture into the corn and egg yolks. Lighten the mixture by stirring 1/3 of the beaten egg whites into the corn, then gently fold the remaining egg whites into the batter.
  • Lightly oil the skillet/griddle with vegetable oil. Drop the batter by spoonful onto the griddle. Bake several minutes, til browned on the bottom, then turn and brown the other side. Adjust the heat down as needed if the fritters are browning too quickly.
     
  • Makes one dozen corn fritters